Flooring Contractor in Tamiami, FL - Coated Floors for Slabs on Low, Wet Ground

Miami-Dade County issues them if your property is in unincorporated Miami-Dade, and a city's own building official issues them if you're inside that city's limits. A folio, the county's property number, that starts with "30" marks unincorporated county land, and the Property Appraiser can show which city a property is in. Sorting that out for your address is part of what we do before any work starts.

Resurfacing a floor is on Miami-Dade County's list of work that doesn't need a building permit, but a job can bring in other work, like moving an outlet, so it's worth confirming with the office for your address. Under the county's newer permit exemptions, some small projects valued under $7,500 can skip the building permit if they meet the county's criteria, but only on single-family homes, duplexes, townhouses and the accessory structures on those properties. Properties partly or entirely in a flood hazard area don't qualify, and electrical, plumbing, structural, mechanical and gas work still needs a permit at any price.

Ask whether their license is state certified or registered, because the Florida Department of Business and Professional Regulation says a certified license is good statewide while a registered one only covers the cities or counties where the holder has a local trade license. In Miami-Dade, the county's Contractor Licensing Section licenses contractors, and only a licensed contractor or an owner-builder can get a county building permit. We're licensed and fully insured, and I'm happy to go over it when I come out.

Most peeling comes from moisture pushing up through the slab or from coating concrete that was never ground open, so the coating had nothing to grip. With groundwater this close to the surface, I check your slab for moisture at the estimate and tell you straight if it needs a moisture-blocking primer, a base coat that holds back water from below, or a different floor altogether. We grind the slab before we coat it, because a coat over smooth, sealed concrete holds about as well as tape on a wet window.

Your price comes down mostly to the slab's condition and the finish you pick, and I give it to you in writing after I've seen the floor. Cracks to fill, an old coating to strip, moisture that calls for a special primer and a bigger floor all push the number up, while a sound, bare slab and a simple flake or solid color keep it down. A metallic look or a fast-curing topcoat usually costs more than a plain coat, and you'll see all of it on the estimate before you decide.

The prep sets the schedule more than the size of the garage does, so a bare, sound slab goes faster than one with cracks or an old coating to strip first. The coating matters too, since a fast-curing polyaspartic gets your car back inside sooner than a standard epoxy that needs longer to cure. I'll tell you at the estimate what your floor needs, and you'll want the garage cleared out before our crew arrives.